TEQUILA PRODUCTION

TYPES OF TEQUILA

LEGEND OF TEQUILA

POPULAR CULTURE

SOURCES and NOTES

Background music "Mexican Moonshine" courtesy of Roger Clyne and the Peacemakers

BACKGROUND MUSIC CONTROLS

Tequila Connection collected an assortment of tequila related information during annual visits to Jalisco (2009 through 2015), as well as from a variety of Internet sources. For more details, click on the above link to SOURCES and NOTES.

INTRODUCTION

Tequila is an agave-based spirit made primarily in the area surrounding Tequila, Jalisco, 65 kilometers (40 miles) in the northwest of Guadalajara and in the highlands (Los Altos) of the western Mexican state. The volcanic soil in the region surrounding Tequila is particularly well suited to the growing of the cactus-like blue-agave, and more than 300 million of the plants are harvested there each year.[1] However, Mexican laws state that tequila can be produced only in the state of Jalisco and limited regions in the states of Guanajuato, Michoacán, Nayarit, and Tamaulipas

Tequila sold in Mexico most often contains an alcohol content of 38% (76 proof). Tequila sold in the United States is most often made at a 40% alcohol content (80 proof), but there are also several varieties of tequila produced with 35-50% alcohol content (70-100 proof).

Tequila - the beverage associated with Mexican ranchers, cowboys and bandits - has migrated into the hands of mainstream America. Premium tequilas have risen steadily in status over recent years and are now seated on the top shelf along side other fine spirits such as cognac and scotch. Sure, many folks still mix tequila in margaritas or slam it down with salt and lime, but a growing mass of people from all walks of life are discovering fine tequila can be enjoyed in sipping style. In part, tequila earned its rowdy reputation by appearing at frat parties where obnoxious behavior and next-day hangovers are common. This won't change anytime soon, however, many have realized there is another side to this intriguing spirit.

Tequila's history and culture is deeply rooted in Mexico's heritage. Long before the arrival of Conquistadors, the natives were making a fermented beverage called "pulque". This vitamin rich drink was made from fermented sap extracted from the heart of the Maguey plant (one of numerous varieties of agave). In addition to making pulque, the natives made clothing, rope, mats and paper from the long fibers of the maguey leaves. The sharp tips of the leaves were used as tacks or needles for sewing clothing. The maguey, one of Mexico's most sacred plants, had a prominent place in religious ceremonies and rituals.

The transformation of pulque, tequila's predecessor, to something stronger occurred in the 1500s when the Spaniards introduced the distillation process to the region. When the Spanish conquistadors ran out of their own brandy, they began to distill this agave drink to produce North America's first indigenous distilled spirit.[4] Pulque was distilled to make mezcal wine, also known as agave wine. This product continued to evolve into what we now call Tequila. It shares the name with a small town located in the state of Jalisco, where the blue agave thrives and much of tequila is made today. The origin of the word tequila is a bit of a mystery. It is said to have derived from an ancient Nahuatl term meaning "the place of harvesting plants" or "a place to pay tribute." The word tequila is also said to mean "the rocks that cut." There is an extinct volcano (called Tequilán) near the town of Tequila. The indigenous natives who trekked throughout this region routinely experienced cuts on their feet from the obsidian-laced terrain. The obsidian was used by the natives in ancient times to make sharp tools and weapons.

Although the first tequila production was reported in the 1600s, some experts argue it was being produced several years earlier by some haciendas for their personal use. Production was done behind closed doors because if caught, the hacienda would be forced to pay taxes to the Spanish crown. [35]

There is also some debate as to where tequila was first produced. Some believe it occurred in the town of Tequila, some say it was in Amatitán, and others think it was in Arenal. Unfortunately, there are no documented sources for either of these versions. It has been claimed (and disputed) that a wealthy landowner from the region of Tequila, Don Pedro Sánchez de Tagle, marquis of Altamira, was the first to compile the different traditional techniques to plan an industry with a better production process. He was also the first to plant agave exclusively to make mezcal wine. Some believe there was enough water for such an industry in Tequila, but not in Amatitán.[40]

Miguel Claudio Jimenez Vizcarra explains a different story in his document "ORIGIN AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE AGRO-INDUSTRY OF MEZCAL SPIRITS CALLED TEQUILA." He believes the Indians living in the Tecuane Canyon near Amatitan were producing mescal wine around the year 1540. Ruins of possibly the oldest production area have been discovered at this location. Some believe this production area actually included a crude distillation process. There is a natural water source in the Tecuane Canyon area to support the production of mezcal wine/tequila. We (Tequila Connection) visited the ruins and took some photos.
Read more on this topic by visiting our World Tequila Day page (Scroll down to "Disputing Tequila's Oringins") and view photos of the Tecuane Canyon production site by selecting the Tecuane Canyon link at our Photo Gallery Selection Page.

José Antonio Cuervo was the first licensed manufacturer. In 1758 the King of Spain granted Senior Cuervo the rights to cultivate a parcel of land. The agave fields have been growing in numbers ever since. In 1997, Cuervo's output reached 37 million liters of tequila, of which 76% was exported. Cuervo remains the largest producer and exporter of tequila today.[36]

In 1858, Don Cenobio Sauza visited the town of Tequila and quickly fell in love with this magical place. He gained skills in agave farming and learned about production while working at the Cuervo Distillery. He later bought his own distillery and founded Sauza Tequila, becoming one of Cuervo's great rivals. Don Cenobio's grandson, Don Francisco Javier, gained international attention for insisting that tequila can only be made from the Weber Blue Agave. Tequila first made its debut in the United States in 1873, exported by the fabrica of Don Cenobio Sauza.[37]

In the 1630s Mexican vendors (traveling on donkeys from pueblo to pueblo selling goods) helped spread the word of the new drink called mezcal wine. [38] However, tequila would not gain its due respect for hundreds of years. After 1821 when Mexico attained independence, Spanish products became increasingly difficult to obtain, opening the door for tequila to flourish. Tequila became a symbol of national pride during the Mexican Revolution. French products were cast aside, replaced by a patriotic desire to support Mexican goods. In addition, prohibition in the USA had positive impact to tequila's popularity and demand was on the rise as it was smuggled across the border. Demand spiked again in the USA during World War II when spirits from Europe became scarce. Increased production during this period brought on the need for governmental oversight. This led to the creation of two entities which have since transformed into Mexico's present-day regulatory organizations.

In the mid 1900s, Mexico was staking its claim. Through years of effort, international treaties and agreements, Mexico gained acceptance and recognition as the only country that can legally produce "Tequila". Mexico established strict regulations to ensure tequila is produced within specified guidelines in order to maintain a level of quality. To be called Tequila, it must contain at least 51% agave tequiliana Weber, variety azul. However, most premium tequilas are made from 100% blue agave, and this is normally indicated on the label.

Although Mexico's tequila is rich in culture, history and legend, it is also confused and misunderstood. Many people think tequila is made from a cactus. This is a myth. Tequila is made from the Weber Blue Agave, a succulent plant related to the lily and amaryllis. It grows in a cactus-like environment, but it is not a cactus. The blue agave has a life-span of 7-15 years, stands 2 or more meters tall, and has a diameter of 2-4 meters.

Another source of confusion is the difference between Mezcal and Tequila. Mezcal (from the Nahuatl word, Mexcalmetl) is known to be any distilled beverage made from the maguey (agave) family of plants. Thus, tequila is technically a type of mezcal, but mezcal is not a type of tequila. They are considered two distinct products. Mezcal is made from over two dozen agave species including Tobala and Espadin. Mezcal can be produced from the Weber Blue Agave, although this variety is primarily used for making tequila. The (traditional) production process is also different. For mezcal, the agave hearts are baked in rock-lined underground pits, covered with fiber mats and earth. This technique gives mescal a smokier flavor. Mezcal generally has a stronger bite than tequila, and is consequently less popular. However, mezcal producers are increasingly changing to a production process similar to that of tequila, hence mezcal today can be much smoother and refined compared to years past. As of 2015, there are several hundred brands of tequila and over 150 brands of mezcal being produced (and certified) in Mexico. Similar to tequila, mezcal generally has an alcohol content of 38-40%. Tequila is made primarily in the state of Jalisco in west-central Mexico. Mezcal is produced primarily in the state of Oaxaca, in southern Mexico.

Another myth is that tequila has a worm in the bottle. There is no worm in tequila bottled in Mexico. There is sometimes a worm in bottles of mezcal, but not tequila. When a worm is included in a bottle of mezcal, it is known as "con gusano" (with worm). The "worm" is usually the larva of one of two kinds of insects, either a red worm ("gusano rojo") or a maguey worm ("chinicuil"), the caterpillar of the Hypopta agavis moth.[39]
The worm is a marketing ploy, as it has lost its nutrients inside the bottle. If you do find a worm in a bottle of mezcal, you can drink it without worry as the alcohol has thoroughly sanitized it. Although consuming the worm does not result in any special aphrodisiac powers or hallucinogenic effects, some find it somewhat spiritual and imaginative.

In recent years many manufacturers have began producing premium tequilas in collector bottles costing $60 - $100 USD or more. Although the fancy bottles are quite charming, if you forego this pleasure, you can find quality 100% agave tequila for less than half the price. Most tequila sold in the US for less than $20 a bottle is not 100% agave, but rather a mixture of 51% agave and 49% something else. Purists demand 100% agave tequila. Which tequilas are supreme is really a matter of individual taste. Some prefer the rough bite and strong agave presence of un-aged blanco tequila. Others like the characteristics of a middle-aged reposado, and some prefer the smoothness and woody aromas of an older añejo. Take the time to experience the different brands available and decide for yourself which is best.

In 2017, trade body the Distilled Spirits Council released data showing that sales at the super-premium end of the tequila spectrum had grown by 706% in the US since 2002. Meanwhile, in the UK, another key tequila market, value sales shot up by 37% in two years as drinkers swap shots for cocktails and higher-end neat serves, according to the Wine and Spirit Trade Association.

International drinks groups have an acute sense of Tequila's potential, and some have made transformational acquisitions in the category. Casamigos Tequila, founded in 2013 by actor George Clooney along with friends Rande Gerber and Mike Meldman, sold to Diageo in 2017 for up to $1 billion ($700 million up front and $300 million additionally possible if future sales meet prescribed goals). As of 2017, Diageo's brands include Don Julio Tequila along with Guinness beer and Johnnie Walker Scotch.

Note: Growth in mezcal has also been remarkably rapid. In 2016, Mexico exported 2.7m litres of the spirit, compared with just below 648,000 litres in 2011, according to the Regulatory Council of Mezcal. Two acquisitions spurred debate over the involvement of international drinks groups in artisanal mezcal: in February, Bacardi bought a minority stake in Ilegal Mezcal, and Pernod Ricard purchased a majority stake in Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal in June.[41]

Sales of tequila increased 7.4 percent in 2016, according to research firm IWSR, outpacing virtually every other hard liquor category. Upscale brands have shown the most growth, according to the Distilled Spirits Council, with sales of "high-end" brands rising 292 percent from 2002 to 2016 and "super-premium" brands climbing 706 percent during that period.[40]

As of 2012, the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States. reported a 61% jump in U.S. imports of tequila since 2002. The majority of growth has been in the high-end premium tequila market. 12 million cases of tequila were sold in the U.S. during 2011, rewarding suppliers with a hefty $1.8 billion in revenue.

In the late 1990s and early 2000s, increasing worldwide popularity of tequila drove corporate interest in the drink. Notable developments as a result included:

1. The purchase of Herradura by Brown-Forman for $776 million in September 2006.[5]
2. A new NOM (Norma Oficial Mexicana) for tequila (NOM-006-SCFI-2005) was issued in 2006, and among other changes, introduced a category of tequila called "extra añejo" or "ultra-aged" which must be aged a minimum of 3 years.[6]
3. The purchase of the Sauza and El Tesoro brands by massive holding company Fortune Brands.